Garden city

After such a late night it was wonderful to have a rare sleep in. The bed at the Amara was very comfortable. It was still early for Singapore and dark outside. Eventually I got up and crossed the road to local shopping centre for the enormous residential towers opposite the hotel. It was dingy and perfect. I had a cheap but delicious nasi lemak from a tiny stall, then apom balik from another.

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Now full, it was time to catch the MRT to Chinese Garden. The railway line is elevated for much of its length and afforded good views of local Singapore. Lots of tall apartment blocks and interesting industrial/office buildings.

I love Chinese and Japanese gardens, and while I was sure that these would not be as good as the best of their home countries, I felt like checking them out nonetheless. It’s the kind of place I wouldn’t get to see with the rest of the family.

As I walked through the parkland from the station the garden’s most prominent aspect, a seven storey pagoda, was already visible. I climbed the stairs to the top of the pagoda for some wonderful views.

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Unfortunately, the bonsai garden was under renovation, though many of the plants themselves were on display around the permieter of the traditional CHinese complex.

I walked across the bridge to the Garden of Abundance, which was actually a garden of the Chinese zodiac. Each of the twelve animals was represented as a statue and a park bench. Quite cute! This is for Alex the Rat. The descriptions of the characteristics of each animal sign were often way off track.

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A long white Chinese bridge linked to the Japanese Garden, a reasonable representation of a Japanese strolling garden. There were torii and even some appropriate bird life.

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By now the weather was getting hot and humid and I was feeling tired. So I caught the train back to Tanjong Pagar. I returned to the Maxwell Food Centre for lunch, and the same stall as last night’s dinner.

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This time I ordered the Hokkien prawn noodles. At first taste they were bland, but once I stirred in the sambal I understood why so many ordered it last night.

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Opposite, the Tian Tian Chicken Rice stall had a long queue. Must try it out, it sounds famous. I bought two more pieces of apom balik.

I returned to the hotel and had a rest, then a swim. The pool was deserted and the water at a perfect temperature for swimming. It’s just a simple rectangle pool, but quite attractive and the fountains can give your back a good pummeling.

I tried the apom balik. So good, better than the morning’s. Another reason to return to Maxwell.

Then shopping time. I caught the MRT and walked to Suntec Mall, eventually moving across to the Marina. Got my shoes and a tablet. I don’t enjoy shopping. A lot of walking was involved.

Then I caught the train up to Mountbatten for my dinner. Under instructions I tried the food at the Old Airport Road Food Centre, chosing dishes from stalls with long queues. Actually, the longest queue was, like at Maxwell, a soya bean dessert shop. Not interested. Instead I had crab and fish otah – so nice – and char kway teoh from Lao Fu Zi.

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The char kway teoh was indeed very nice, hence the long queue. But I’m a bit sick of it.

Then I tried Toa Payoh Rojak, so popular that you have to take a numbered ticket. Also very yummy. Despite a fresh honeydew milkshake my mouth was burning by now.

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There were beautiful late afternoon skies outside as I talked to B on my mobile, using the free international calls with this sim card. Then I caught the MRT to Bayside. To my left were the three tall buildings of the Marina Sands casino complex, linked by a bridge at the top that looked like a zeppelin from below at some angles.

My destination was another garden, the recently opened Bay South Garden. This has two giant glass conservatories containing plants from very unSingaporean climes. But everyone’s focus was on the Supertrees. These artificial structures looked like something straight out of an alien Star Wars world.

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I paid $5 to go up to the cable bridge up high between two of the trees. As only 50 people are allowed up there at any one time it was quite a long wait for my elevator ride. Soon after I made it up the 7.45pm light and music show began. Despite the vertigous shaking of the bridge, it’s quite an amazing experience and a must see in Singapore.

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It took me a long time to escape from the gardens. Unfortunately the conservatories were closed to new entrants by the time I arrived. I tried the hibiscus and the lychee ice creams at Seventh Heaven and couldn’t finish them as they just weren’t nice.

It was a long walk back to the Esplanade MRT stop, Where I ended up after missing the path to Bayside. It was dark, but I felt safe. I walked all the way past ArtScience and the floating stage used for the Youth Olympics a couple of years ago. I could see it being prepared for the upcoming National Day celebrations. They take it very seriously hear, too seriously in my opinion.

After walking across the twisty and blue-lit Helix bridge I made it to Esplanade and then required two more stops to get to Tanjong Pagar. Too late for more food, though I picked up some fruit and fried banana (not nice unfortunately, neither was the peach Fanta). Last night at the hotel. I really miss B and Alex, but I’m not looking forward to that flight home.

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